Whenever you spend more than a few days in Venice, you will travel a few streets (calli) and public spaces (campi) many times as you walk to and from your accommodations. Campo Santo Stefano was the hub for our recent stay, and a key route to several Vaporetto stops, many Biennale d’Arte venues, shops and restaurants, was Calle De la Botteghe (the Street of the Shops) in Sestiere San Marco.
Wherever you find yourself, pause and observe places along the way, whether inclined to patronize them or not, and learn more about “your neighborhood”. A simple start on Calle De la Botteghe is noting some of the interesting businesses calling it home, including on its extension, Crosera (“Crocera” on some maps).
Calle de la Botteghe begins at the northwest corner of Campo Santo Stefano, across from the great Augustinian church of Santo Stefano, between Gelateria Roulin Santo Stefano and Panninoteca All’Angolo.
The calle heads northwest through intersections with Piscina San Samuele, the sottoportego framing Calle De le Muneghe, and Calle dei Orbi. There, the street bends northward and is named Crosera until it meets Salizzada San Samuele (left) and Ramo di Piscina (right, and no longer a dead-end ramo but a through route to parallel Piscina San Samuele, perhaps since the pond – Piscina – was filled and developed). Past that intersection, Botteghe/Crosera becomes Calle Corner o Del Magazen, a primarily residential street that ends at the gate into Palazzo Mocenigo’s garden.
Here are a few of the calle‘s attractions and distractions, first walking along the South side starting at the Campo, then returning down the other side of the street:
- Gelateria Roulin Santo Stefano (actually a Campo address – but look through the windows!) serves great ice cream confections and drinks at an excellent, shady spot to sit and people watch.
- Rizzo Pane (2964): Bread and groceries when you can’t make it to the Alimentaria, Billa or Coop, and our “around the corner” mini-mart, with the advantage of good bread (pane).
- Locanda Art Deco (2965): Hotel/bed and breakfast. Wander in, look at the Lobby and say “Ciao”
- Osteria Doge Morisini: A restaurant with a second entrance on Campo Santo Stefano.
- Vernissage (2968): Art!
- Botteg@ (2970): A one-time internet cafe (hence, @ in the name) that looks like a boutique.
- Kleine Gallerie (2972): Old prints, reproductions, porcelain and antique books.
- Antiquus (2973): Also up-street at 3130 at some time or other. Paintings, tableware and jewelry.
- Artigianato Veneziano (2974): Restoration of lights, tableware, old frames and other decorator items.
Northeast from the corner of Calle de le Muneghe, 2995 and 2996 are women’s clothing and jewelry shops in a very narrow building between Muneghe and Calle di Orbi. Further on, the street becomes Crosera.
- Corvi-Mora Gallery (3126):c/o Galbria Marina Brovier glass art gallery on Salizzada San Samuele.
- Augusto Rillesi (3127): Antique textiles and carpet.
- Antichita San Samuele (3130): Restored antique decorator items.
- Antiquus (3130): A former, sometimes or second location – I couldn’t tell!
- Caigo da Mar (3131): Art and decor.
- Gallery Holly Snapp (3133, etc.): on the corner at Salizzada San Samuele. Specializes in the art of Geoffrey Humphries, English ex-pat and famous Guidecca studio impressario. Great window displays wrap the corner, but we never found it open, even during posted hours. “Call ahead for appointment” is advised!
Just north across the Salizzada, Guandagni (interior design) occupies the corner where the street name finally changes to Calle Corner o Dei Magazen. Wander up the quieter stretch to the Palazzo Mocenigo gate, then head back down to the Campo and enjoy the other side of the street!
- Alimentaria: Grocery store on the corner of Ramo di Piscina.
- Osteria Al “Bacareto” (3447): reasonable outdoor seating.
- Gaggio (3451): An interesting interior decoration shop and service at Calle dei Orbi.
- Osteria alle Botteghe (3455 – 3454): At Piscina San Samuele. A busy and warm family run place, busy with the help of positive write-ups in “Cafes of Venice” and travel advise blogs, so expect international clientele (euphemism for tourists).
- Dai do Cancari (3456): A nice wine shop, where you can refill 2-liter bottles at a reasonable price or purchase from a broad selection of primarily Italian wines. We had a very nice and informative conversation with the amiable proprietor.
- Atelier Nube and Arcobalena (3457): Art supplies to the left, housewares to the right, and a famous window display of color pigments for blending your own paints
- Bacaro and Trattoria da Fiore (3461): We had an excellent dinner here, with great hospitality in a lively and warm atmosphere. The clientele appears to be mostly visitors, probably due to inclusion in many travel blogs and in “Cafes of Venice”.
- Gallery _____(3462): Interesting art, no visible sign, always locked when we passed.
- Panninoteca All’Angolo: A popular, busy spot on the corner to Salizzada Santo Stefano: Great pannini and spritz! There are a few tables outside, usually camped on by fewer people than there are chairs, but great staff and sustenance!
Of course, do not forget to “look up” along the way. Mid-calle sightings include the worn plaque of the Scuola dei Calegheri Tedeschi (German shoe-makers confraternity) with its projecting shoe, near the corner of Calle dei Orbi, in this location for about 550 years!
Having seen wayward, unattached shoes all over the world – usually one, not a pair, and never stone shoes except here – I always looked up at this sight.
If the other shoe drops, I don’t want to be the target!